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Engine replacement - three questions

 
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Tayary



Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 65
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Sun Nov 26, 2006 3:54 am    Post subject: Engine replacement - three questions Reply with quote

The issue of engine replacement has come up a few times and I have looked in the archives but am left with 3 questions :-

- Any advantage to more than 50HP from the engine? I assume the limit in most cases is the propeller?
- When removing the old engine apart from splitting the gearbox will it come out the hatch easily?
- Has anyone tried a KIWI prop? I have read some good reports and it does not need a shaft brake with a hydraulic gearbox.

many thanks,

Dave
TAYARY
T37 Ketch
 
David Allin     Director PSI
Patentlaan 9, Rijswijk 2288EE, Den Haag, the Netherlands
Tel: +31 70 340 2221 |  Fax: +31 70 340 3971 |  E-mail: [url=arial]dallin@epo.org[/url]


 
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Dayton Eckerson



Joined: 22 Aug 2005
Posts: 128

PostPosted: Tue Nov 28, 2006 6:26 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

David:
I believe the standard engines installed in late model T-37s and many repowers has been the Yanmar 4JH series which are rated @ about 56 HP, so that seems the current conventional wisdom for the optimal HP. Be aware however that HP ratings aren't very easy to compare across different manufacturers, as they all seem to give ratings at different RPMs. That being said, its never a bad idea to have a few extra horses under the hood when you are powering off a lee shore or trying to extricate yourself from a grounding. A more powerful engine will also, in theory, last longer because it is not working as hard as a smaller engine at cruising speed, but you probably won't live long enough to justify the added initial cost. Also, if you go for the extra HP through a turbocharged engine, you'll be adding an additional expensive/complex part that may prove irresistible to Mr. Murphy.
Regarding removal, I don't know what engine you have, but we had no problem fitting our Perkins through the companionway once the transmission was removed, and several people on the list have removed their Yanmar 30QMs successfully. Be sure to drain all the oil out first!!!
Good luck.
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Dayton Eckerson
T-37 MISTRESS (#215)
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Tayary



Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 65
Location: The Netherlands

PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 4:38 am    Post subject: Engine replacement - three questions Reply with quote

Dayton,

thanks for the feedback which makes a lot of sense. As a follow up, what size is you exhuast diameter? On my boat it looks to be around 4cms which is rather small, on the other hand the system is nicely made dry stainless steel with the mixing right in the stern. this is a very good way to avoid water coming back into the engine given the very small drop in the TAYANA.

Dave
TAYARY
t37 Ketch
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Dayton Eckerson



Joined: 22 Aug 2005
Posts: 128

PostPosted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 7:48 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave:
If I recall correctly, our exhaust diameter (ID) is 2 inches (5.08 centimeters). The Yanmar installation manual called for 3 inches, but the Yanmar dealer assured us that 2 inch hose was adequate, and 350 hours of run time over the last 4 years has confirmed this. The stainless steel jacketed exhaust system you described is the same one our and most other T-37s came with. These systems work well when new, but rust out on a fairly regular basis. Most owners have gone to the water lift mufflers. The risk of getting sea water into your engine can be virtually eliminated by installing an antisiphon loop in your sea water supply hose and putting sufficient rise into your exhaust pipe to get the mixing elbow above the heeled water line (about 18 inches above the exhaust manifold in most cases). Nigel Calder's book covers this subject well.
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Dayton Eckerson
T-37 MISTRESS (#215)
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Kamaloha



Joined: 28 Oct 2005
Posts: 225
Location: Lebanon, NH

PostPosted: Mon Apr 30, 2007 8:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Dave, I made a template from the dimensions on the Kiwi website, and this weekend visited the boat. I can safely say there is no way a Kiwiprop will fit without major modification to the rudder. The aperture is way too tight.
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Charlie
s/v Kamaloha
1987 T37 #542
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Rollo



Joined: 09 Feb 2006
Posts: 18
Location: San Pedro Ca.

PostPosted: Tue Aug 28, 2007 9:46 pm    Post subject: Repower Reply with quote

Try looking at all the option's before jumping on the HP band wagon, my boat came with a 40 HP Volvo and it powered the boat at 7.5 all day long.
Having said that, it too finaly gave up the fight to servive (salt got it).
I repowered with a Volvo D-2-40 and it's even better than the MD in all reguards. Try looking at www.tayana-repower.com It's a great way to go.

Rollo
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hjkarten
Site Admin


Joined: 21 Jul 2005
Posts: 642
Location: Del Mar, California, USA

PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 6:35 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Dayton,
Do you have an anti-siphon on the intake side of your salt water system? Does that suck air into the system?
We have an anti-siphon on the output side that comes off the riser elbow of the exhaust manifold. That is required if your engine is less than 24 inches above the mean waterline. This is also prior to the Vetus water lift muffler.
regards,
Harvey
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Harvey J. Karten
Tayana 37
Hull #84
Del Mar, CA 92014
EMail: hjkarten@ucsd.edu
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Dayton Eckerson



Joined: 22 Aug 2005
Posts: 128

PostPosted: Wed Aug 29, 2007 8:47 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Harvey:
If I'm remembering correctly, the raw water line runs from the through hull, to the water strainer, to the engine, then from the engine to the anti-siphon elbow (mounted on the under side of the bridge deck), then to the mixing elbow. The mixing elbow is mounted a foot or so above the exhaust manifold and drains into to water lift muffler. The anti-siphon valve, if operating correctly, should not allow air into the system, though now that I think about it, I'm not sure how it would be manifested if it did. The valves on the anti-siphon loop often get clogged with encrusted salt. Does that answer your question?
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Dayton Eckerson
T-37 MISTRESS (#215)
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