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zincs
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jklewissf



Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 103
Location: San Francisco, California

PostPosted: Sun Jul 29, 2007 9:05 am    Post subject: zincs Reply with quote

I dont know if my 37 is special or not but there is not a standard size shaft zinc that will fit between the end of the cutlas bearing and the prop. I have had to have zincs ground down to fit the space and it has been pretty expensive.

If this is a problem that everyone has maybe someone on this board has a good source of properly sized zincs.

There is tons of space between the nut on the end of my prop and the apeture so maybe the answer is to put a perry nut on it.
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cbucher



Joined: 06 Jun 2006
Posts: 39
Location: Pictou Nova Scotia Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 5:39 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi John;

You assumption is correct. Due to the restricted shaft length, a shaft anode won’t fit. I use a propeller nut/anode unit. I buy mine through Stright-Mackay (on line) at (https://www.stright-mackay.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=S&Product_Code=150&Category_Code=)
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Christian

1983 T37 "Ladyfish" #397
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jklewissf



Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 103
Location: San Francisco, California

PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 6:06 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Thanks for the info and the link.
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Rich Hampel



Joined: 15 Aug 2005
Posts: 391
Location: Chalfont Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:01 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Also be aware that the large 'block' zincs that are attached near the rudder aperture are electrically bonded to the housing assembly that contains the stuffing box and and the cutless bearing. The electrical bonding is thru a thin bronze strip that is embedded in the fiberglass in the deadwood section of the aperture and the embedded strip runs all the way down to the upper pintle of the rudder and the lower rudder support bearing.

Why I bring this up is that if you cannot find an adequate zinc for the prop nut, etc., all you have to do is electrically bond the stuffingbox housing to the shaft (inside the boat) with a metal 'wiper' to the prop shaft, since the prop is already electrically bonded to the shaft .... all will be additionallly protected by those large 'block' zincs mounted on the rudder.
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RichH
Ty37 #423 "Aquila"
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Steve Abel



Joined: 16 Dec 2005
Posts: 37
Location: Mount Vernon, WA

PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 7:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich- great information. Even though I have a shaft zinc on our T-37 (we use a 'limited clearance' zinc between the prop and cutlass bearing (leaving enough room for water to enter the bearing), is it advisable to bond the shaft with the rest of the boat anyway? In one sense it seems like a good thing to do, in that the large zincs can also provide some protection for the prop; but on the other hand, it seems that the smaller shaft zinc would also now be burdened with it's share of protection on the rest of the boat... unstead of just protecting the prop/shaft. Your thoughts??

Steve
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Steve Abel
SV Victoria Rose
Tayana 37 #384
Sailing out of Anacortes, WA
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Rich Hampel



Joined: 15 Aug 2005
Posts: 391
Location: Chalfont Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Mon Jul 30, 2007 8:10 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I think (guess, really) its advisable to have the shafting and prop connnected to the boats bonding system .... in case of lightning strike. I run large 'jumpers' across the flexible coupler on propshaft ... just in case. On my previous boat I was 'hit' twice (once with an 'amperage event' that exited through the encapsulated keel that blew away a large section of fiberglass) ... so Im kind of cautious in this respect. But with lightning ... apparently NO ONE has the answer.
I've bonded the stuffing box to the rest of the boat's bonding system .... so now just about 'all' is connnected.

It is possible to 'over-zinc' a boat and do an equal amount of damage in the 'reverse' direction although Ive never done the actual measurements on my Ty37. There are formulas based on actual measured current and the amount of anode mass to be used. For now I simply just keep an eye on the prop-nut zinc, the block-zincs on the rudder and the internal engine zincs. If everything is bonded together, it really doesnt matter electrically where the zinc anode is located.
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RichH
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jklewissf



Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 103
Location: San Francisco, California

PostPosted: Thu Aug 02, 2007 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Based on the condition of the big zincs Rich mentions I dont tink I have any serious problems on my boat but the collar zincs on the shaft need to be replaced every 3 months or so and the cost of having them milled down is more than I think I should be paying. I was hoping there was a source of zincs that are already the correct size.

Since the boat spends the majority of its time at the dock I was thinking about vice griping a wire from the bonding system to the shaft and seeing if the zincs on the shaft last any longer if the shaft is tied into the rest of the bonding system. If that helps I would be willing to go to the trouble to install a shaft wiper to fill that role.

What do you guys think of that idea?
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Mathew Shankweiler



Joined: 04 Jan 2006
Posts: 56
Location: FL

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 5:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hello everyone,

Now that we are on the subject of zincs, can someone please tell me where to get a zinc to replace the one on the rudder? I can't find a common replacement and maybe one of you know something about it.

Additionally, can I replace the rudder zinc while the boat is in the water or will the rudder fill with water after the bolts are removed?

On a similiar subject. If part of the bottom paint has fallen off the rudder, fully exposing the metal, should I feel any immediate urgency to haul the boat out of the water or just wait till the next time the whole hull needs repainting.

Thanks
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Steve Abel



Joined: 16 Dec 2005
Posts: 37
Location: Mount Vernon, WA

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 7:29 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi- for our rudder, we use 'Electo Guard' "Taiwan Plates", which are 5-3/4" x 2-1/2". Their part number is E/G#T... and should be available at many supply stores. We get ours at Fisheries Supply in Seattle (www.fisheriessupply.com)... their part number is 05432.

Regarding limited clearance anodes for prop shafts, Fisheries shows 3 different models/brands, along with the dimensions of each. One of those might work. Just plug in "shaft zincs" on the search engine on their website, and you should be able to view them.

As usual... I have no affiliation or interest in Fisheries... they just happen to be a vendor I use, and most the boat yards in the area purchase from them also.

Steve
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Steve Abel
SV Victoria Rose
Tayana 37 #384
Sailing out of Anacortes, WA
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Rich Hampel



Joined: 15 Aug 2005
Posts: 391
Location: Chalfont Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 7:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?path=-1|311|299255|319701&id=148720
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RichH
Ty37 #423 "Aquila"
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Mathew Shankweiler



Joined: 04 Jan 2006
Posts: 56
Location: FL

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 9:13 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Rich,

Your link didn't work and I searched by the # at the end (product #) with no luck.

Steve,

Your link worked but unfortunately, my zinc is about 5 or 6 inches by 4 or 5 inches and it doesn't have slots like that one in your link. Thanks for the effort.

To all,

The other questions I had was as follows: Do I have to haul the boat to replace the rudder zinc? Do I have to worry about the rudder having bare metal showing where the paint has fallen off or can I wait till I paint the boat next time the whole haul needs it?

Thanks
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Rich Hampel



Joined: 15 Aug 2005
Posts: 391
Location: Chalfont Pennsylvania

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 11:55 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Sorry about the size. CanadaMetals is perhaps the largest supplier of 'block' shaped zincs and you can find most varying sizes of them at good internet prices at www.defender.com Defender usually ships on the same day.

Sure you can change such a zinc underwater.... how long can you hold your breath? Its best however to change them while on the hard to insure that the zinc is making a metal to metal connection with the rudder strap/internals so that you are sure the zinc is 'electrically bonded' to the parts - using a VOM.
Paint is only for protection from barnacles/slime, etc.

Smile
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RichH
Ty37 #423 "Aquila"
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jklewissf



Joined: 26 Feb 2007
Posts: 103
Location: San Francisco, California

PostPosted: Fri Aug 03, 2007 9:08 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

holding your breath to work on the bottom is not a problem with a scuba tank but dont do that unless you have been trained. You can easily kill yourself by using any device that allows you to breath compressed air under water.

I have serviced a lot of things under my boats over the years using scuba gear and really think its a good skill to have, especially if you intend to live off the grid for a while.

There is not a zinc on my boat that I could not replace with the boat in the water. I can also swap the 3 bladed prop with a two bladed version for long passages.

The hardest thing I have ever done on the bottom of my boat is cleaning it. They guy I pay to do that earns every nickel. that's very hard work. He will also replace the zincs while Im still near civilization.

I'll measure the milled down zincs the next time Im at the boat and try the sources you guys listed. There are enough T37s out there that if we all need thinner zincs, someone can make a buck producing them.
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tandbeth@comcast.net



Joined: 26 Sep 2005
Posts: 10
Location: Richmond, VA

PostPosted: Tue Sep 11, 2007 4:47 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

We have also had problems with our shaft zinc going in about 3 months. I checked it with a meter and found .7 volts at the prop shaft. Our engine circuit is energized whenever our battery selector switch is on. I am guessing that the .7 volts is whats left of the 12.5 volts after it passes through the transmission and shaft coupling. Is this normal?

The grounding wire is attached to a bolt on the engine, and the battery negative is attached to the engine mounting bracket. Should these terminate at the same point?

Has anyone tried to isolate the engine circuit with a seperate swich, so it is not energized 24/7, but only when the engine is running?

I have considered installing a remote solenoid switch in the positive line from the battery selector switch to the starter. It could be opened by a feed from the back side of the ignition switch on the engine panel.

Any thoughts??
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Terrell & Beth
T37 #374
Hy Brasil
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hjkarten
Site Admin


Joined: 21 Jul 2005
Posts: 642
Location: Del Mar, California, USA

PostPosted: Wed Sep 12, 2007 5:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi Terrel and Beth,
Which the two points you used to connect your voltmeter? Propshaft and battery ground? Engine? Through-hull?
regards,
Harvey
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Harvey J. Karten
Tayana 37
Hull #84
Del Mar, CA 92014
EMail: hjkarten@ucsd.edu
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